Minervois — Paroles de vignerons - Vinparleur

Seventh „Coup de Cœur“ from the Guide Hachette for the leading cuvée of Domaine Pierre Cros

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel, Wine Press...

Seventh „Coup de Cœur“ fort he leading cuvée of the estate. As a “spiritual leader” of the Minervois, Pierre Cros belongs to those wine grower artists, that have found the Holy Grail in their vineyards and share their life’s work with us, by honouring our tables with their Devine brewage.

This 2009 provides aromas of black currant, vanilla, blackberry, pepper and cinnamon of exceptional intensity. Smooth and full-bodied, even sensual on the palate, this wine evolves towards an apotheosis of a nearly endless final.
Pink is without a doubt the most beautiful colour of summer – Pierre Cros Tradition Minervois

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel

Rosé wine is the winner of the past decade. We are drinking more and more of it, waiting almost as much for it as we are waiting for summer. We love it! Becoming popular has also had the impact to improved its quality, as the days of the cheap’n harsh Château Migraine seem to be far away. In fact, rosé is now considered as being a real wine and not anymore as some kind of hybrid looking for its personality somewhere between red and white wine.
There are several great rosé regions in France: The Loire and its sometimes sweet wines made of Cabernet franc and Gamay, Provence with its straight wines made from Mourvèdre and Tibouren noir, the Grenache based rosés from the Rhone Valley, with the king of rosé coming from Tavel, the great Languedoc region with its Mediterranean rosés made of Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan…

Concerning the production process of rosé, there are two traditional schools of wine making, which may complement one another: Rosé made by direct pressing of the grapes, and rosé de saignée (the French word literally means bleeding). For the first methodology, the red grapes are destemmed and directly pressed after harvest. The wines made this way are mostly light coloured. But finally colour not only depends of the wine making process, but is also strongly influenced by the grape variety and the ripeness of the berries. After pressing, the must will be fermented like white wine at low temperatures.

For a saignée rosé there is no pressing. Grapes are destemmed and slightly crushed, before being put in a tank and cooled down. After several hours of skin maceration, 10% to 20% of the must is removed into another tank. The removed juice will be fermented to rosé wine, whereas the remaining grapes in the first tank will be fermented to red wine. We generally agree that the longer the skin contact between the juice and the grapes, the deeper its colour. But like in the case of direct pressing, the influence of grape variety and ripeness on colour remains high.

These two wine-making methods lead to different types of wine. Direct pressing mostly gives a lightly coloured, straight and fresh rosé, whereas the saignée way results in deeply coloured, mellow and stronger wines. Of course, you may also use both ways to produce a wine, directly pressing one part of the harvest and using the saignée process for another. You only have to be sure that the process you choose suits to the grapes and the type of wine you want to make.

The cuvee Tradition from Pierre Cros from the Minervois is a good example for this. Made of four different grape varieties, Pierre uses both methods on different varieties: Direct pressing of Grenache and Mourvèdre makes his wine straight and fresh, whereas the saignée of Syrah and Cinsault juices make it smooth and mellow. Lightly coloured, his rosé has a powerful nose of strawberries and raspberries, with hints of lemon peel and mint. On the palate, it’s light and fresh, showing some light tannin on the final. Served at the right temperature (10 to 12 °C or 50 to 53 °F), it’s the perfect wine for your aperitif, for a lunch on the terrace or for grilled fish and seafood. To cut a long story short – it’s perfect company for your summer days and nights!
ARAMON, PIQUEPOUL NOIR, ASPIRAN... at Domain Pierre Cros old grape varieties are being planted again

Aramon, Picpoul noir, Aspiran... The return of the old grape varieties

Permalink, by Pierre Cros

Its already a bit more than ten years ago and started with pain (even being sued by the French authorities and above all, accompanied by scornful laughter from the different associations of wine producers), that the Cuvee Les Mal Aimeés ( „The Unloved“) is being produced from old traditional grape varieties of the Languedoc, like Alicante, Aramon, Piquepoul noir, and Aspiran, all of them „forbidden fruits“.
Presently, and thanks to the fact that the technicians of the Chamber of Agriculture finally woke up, we have planted a young vineyard after selecting the best stems of the old grape varieties Aramon, Piquepoul noir and Aspiran.

Which „sweet“ revenge in favour of the old grapes doomed to be eradicated to the advantage of the so called high quality grapes, and all this in our region characterized by heresy at cost of tradition and heritage in viticulture.

Which „sweet“ revenge again for our ancestors who havent been more nuts than we are today and who already in the old times understood that these grapes should find their place in our dry region, too.

But last not least, which sweet revenge for myself. Nobody has to be ahead of his time, but if someone is the precursor of an upcoming fashion, those who make the decisions for us will not remember that we did the same already ten years ago.

May I therefore envite you to taste my wines at my domain on Saturday and Sunday, the 12. and 13. May from 10.00 to 22.00 hours . Taste and enjoy the cheese ( Cantal , Saint Nectaire) of my friend Jean Pierre „éleveur-fromagier“ at the Ferme de Marcou, together with a god glass of wine from old and young grapes.

Please, make you reservations (cheese, home made sausages and grilled titbits) at 10 € a plate.
Pinot Noir from Domaine Pierre Cros

Permalink, by Wine Press...

Article by Juliet BJ on Languedoc Wine Tales
In the wake of the Pinot Noir scandal of the Aude where fake pinot was sent to Gallo, it is interesting to come across a Pinot which is definitely 100%, even if there is no clue to this on the label.

The Pinot in question comes from Pierre Cros in Badens, a staunch defender of terroir who makes wine from both traditional Languedoc varieties and newcomers. Labelled as a mere Vin de Table (hence no grape variety or vintage allowed on the label) this is a medium ruby black colour. Very dark but not opaque. Very spicy on the nose - almost cigar box and cloves ) with delicate plum and rose aromas. Full bodied on the palate (14.5%) with oodles of very ripe, creamy plum fruit with hints of spice - cloves again. The tannins are very ripe and smooth and the oak is well integrated. Good long finish. Only criticism is that the alcohol is a touch high for my tastes. An opulent Pinot Noir with very smooth tannins. From memory, around 18€ a bottle so not cheap, but good Pinot never is.

Sometimes amiable, sometimes enigmatic, ex-rugbyplayer Pierre is perhaps best known for his other Vin de table, Mal Aimés, made from traditional Languedoc varieties of Aramon, Alicante, Carignan and Picquepoul Noir. Historically, these varieties were massively overcropped and the resulting wines were poor quality. Aramon and Alicante in particular have been derided as poor quality and most have been grubbed up. While they may not be noble varieties and capable of greatness, Pierre proves that these ’unloved’ grapes can produce a very pleasant, smoothly fruity red when the vines are old and yields are kept low.

If you can, visit Domaine Cros in Badens which is about 15 minutes from Carcassonne. His cave is right in the centre of the village and well signposted.http://languedocwinetales.blogspot.fr/
Pierre Cros Syrah “Les Aspres” 2008 - Again highest reward of Guide Hachette

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel, Wine Press...

Three stars and the sixth “Coup de Cœur” (translate like “favourite”) for the grande cuvée of the estate (100% Syrah), that should nevertheless not outshine the red Pierre-Henry 2009 (100% Grenache), a wink to the owner’s son.

Unanimous decision: This wine has a powerful bouquet in which garrigue, pepper, sour cherry, cacao and liquorish collude. Smooth and sensuous, generous flavours with a sublime finish. A true celebration of taste!
1,7 acres of Piemonte in the heart of the Minervois – Nebbiolo from Pierre Cros

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel

A disrooted vineyard? Oh no, I would rather call this Nebbiolo an emigrated vineyard, as the grapes obviously feel quit well in their adopted country: Rooted in the dry and rocky soil of the “Aspres” in the Aude Valley between the Montagne Noir and the Montagne d’Alaric close to Carcassone in Southern France, surrounded by pine trees, truffle oaks, almond trees, and neighboring indigenous grapes such as Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault, but also a highly decorated Syrah, as well as two more immigrants to the region- a Portuguese Touriga nacional and a Burgundian Pinot noir ...

This wine displays its freedom of choice to settle in France already on the label and carries the words “Vin de Table” with pride. In the glass it easily beats the arch of Italy’s north to the south of France, vibrant and earthy at the same time, the body of a dancer and the feet of a peasant, solidly anchored in the rocky soil of the Minervois.

Of clear, mauve-like red, the wine shows a stunning bouquet, ripe, crunchy cherries, ranges up to roasted chestnuts and nougat. With a pleasant acidity and small amounts of fine, although still quite young tannins give the wine an interesting structure.

A harmonious and balanced wine, a little exotic and familiar at the same time, as if it speaks near-perfect French, with a singing, Italian accent... Give it a try on a roasted lamb shoulder.
Forbidden fruit tastes the sweetest - Les Mal Aimés of Pierre Cros

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel, Pierre Cros

Ripe cherries, in colour and in the nose, but also red currant, elderberry and lemon peel. A pleasant mouth feel, almost comfortable, with aromas of stone fruit, black olives and fresh rosemary. Some smooth tannins escort its crispy acidity and give the wine a good balance.

I have met this wine first on its 1999 vintage. Made from the almost forbidden fruits of some very old vines of the Minervois (planted between 1910 and 1930), – Carignan, Alicante, Aramon and Picpoul noir – my palate, used and (de)formed by the taste and aromas of more international grape varieties, was quite confused after the first sip.

“Was this the genuine taste of southern French wines ?”

I’ve never missed a vintage of the Mal Aimés, ever since. I love to taste it in summer or spring, slightly chilled. But I still remember a rainy November lunch, when I served this wine from a decanter on beef and fresh boletus. The food brought out aromas of white pepper, and gave fullness and generosity to the wine.

I really recommend this wine, as it stays a surprise for your taste buds, beyond well-known flavours of standardised wines.