Châteauneuf du Pape — Paroles de vignerons - Vinparleur

Santa Duc 2016 in Châteauneuf-du-Pape : Between the Rhône and the Sky

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel

It’s fairly rare for nature to exceed winemakers’ expectations two years in a row, but this was the case in the Rhone Valley with the 2015 and 2016 vintages.

Almost as if 2016 had taken the previous vintage as a yardstick and then attempt to surpass it and reach out for perfection. With a mild winter, a wet spring and a hot summer, 2016 was moderate from a meteorological point of view.But this moderation proved to be the perfect catalyst for a slow and steady ripening of the grapes which were rich, juicy and highly aromatic when they were harvested. The origin of their immense quality lay in the maturity of the skins and pips, source of tannins, but above all in their extraordinary levels of acidity which gave elegance and delicacy to the wines. Bottled at the beginning of Autumn, the wines of this vintage are distinctive for their richness and remarkable longevity.

Habemus Papam 2016
Exuberantly fragrant as is its wont, Habemus Papam seduces, evidently, with its rich, spicy fruit, but above all with its slightly herbaceous, fresh character, all in notes of camphor and blackcurrant. Juicy, with an opulent softness in the mouth, its tannins are as yet still young and powerful, although showing rectitude and balance.

Les Saintes Vierges 2016
Lightness and fluidity are the watchwords of this plot. Deliciously delicate, its aromas oscillate between sweet cherry, cocoa, and lightly caramelized hazelnuts, as well as a lovely floral touch. It shows an amazing persistence carried by the finesse of its tannins….

Le Pied de Baud 2016
Serious and imperturbable, this wine draws its self-assurance from the power and finesse of its tannins, associated with a finely balanced mineral acidity. Delightfully spicy, as if infused with the fragrance of the undergrowth of the woods around the vineyard, with fruit as bright and pure as the climate, and a structure swathed in soft contours like the gentle outline of the hills of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Truly a child of the terroir.

La Crau Ouest 2016
Complex aromas take their time to open to reveal ripe black fruit, warm spices, and freshly cut wood. In the mouth, it is suave and full, with tight but extremely well-integrated tannins. This perfectly balanced wine offers up powerful flavors and a promising array of aromas. Good ageing potential.
Domaine Santa Duc Châteauneuf-du-Pape « La Crau Ouest » 2015 by The Wine Advocate

Permalink, by Domaine Santa Duc

My top pick from the outstanding lineup of Santa Duc’s 2015 Châteauneufs was the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau Ouest, of which only 200 cases were produced. This pure Grenache o ers sumptuous aromas of violets and roses to go along with cherries and licorice. It’s full-bodied, intense, deep and long, with tannins that properly support the wine’s complexities rather than overwhelming them.

Tasted by Joe Czerwinski for The Wine Advocate, Octobre 2017
Domaine Santa Duc – A #wine list as in the restaurant

With Christophe Aru

Permalink, by Domaine Santa Duc

It’s now more than a year when I took over the Santa Duc wine shop in the centre of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. To me, the presence of Santa Duc in what may be considered as the most famous village of the Côtes-du-Rhône, was inevitable. Thus, more than just a simple wine shop, it is a part of the winery.

One might imagine that it is quite difficult for a sommelier to look after the wines of just one estate. But Santa Duc has a very diverse offer. There are the single vineyard selections from Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Cuvée Les Quattre Terres, an archetype of a perfect Côtes-du-Rhône, “Les Aubes”, a great wine from Vacqueyras, an elegant white wine, a delicious rosé for the summer... And not to forget the older, riper vintages and big bottles we are proposing here. A wide range of different styles and terroirs, which leave a lot of freedom and imagination to work. Almost like a well-stocked wine list in the restaurant.

When I had the opportunity to join the Santa Duc team, I didn’t hesitate for a second. I knew the wines of Yves Gras very well and always liked their refined and sincere style. You can taste the fact that a great winemaker is behind them. Furthermore, the return of Yves’ son Benjamin to the estate opens up great prospects for the upcoming years. Together, they form a great team, as to see already in the wines, which are becoming finer and more elegant every year. The respect for the vines, soils and nature has always been at the heart of Yves’ philosophy. Benjamin, following the ideas of his father, goes even further. While Yves set up organic farming and winemaking, Benjamin has brought biodynamics to the winery.

Boutique Santa Duc
1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
“Yves Gras is producing some of the most compelling examples of Châteauneuf-du-Pape”

Joe Czerwinski @ RobertParker.com

Permalink, by Domaine Santa Duc

« It has been interesting to observe the evolution of winemaking style at this address over the past 20 years. While the premise has always been top-quality fruit from fine-tuned viticulture and moderate yields, ideas about ripeness, methods of extraction and aging have changed. I expect the modern, multilevel tower that serves mainly to receive guests must have turned a few heads when it was first built, but now it is just emblematic of the forward-thinking employed by proprietor Yves Gras and his well-traveled son, Benjamin.

The winery acquired its first amphorae in 2014, and Yves told me he expects that amphora-fermented and aged lots will account for 10% of each blend for 2017. Rather than pure power, the father and son are looking for more balance and freshness in the wines, and they like that the amphorae are “very neutral.” On the warm plateau, where the winery and many of the estate’s vines are located, Mourvèdre is becoming more important in the finished wines. Ben said, “It’s a good tool against global warming.”

Gigondas-based Yves Gras has quietly grown his holdings in Châteauneuf du Pape to six hectares, from which he’s producing four separate cuvées. I’m sure it will hurt some feelings to say an outsider like Gras is producing some of the most compelling examples of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but keep in mind these are generally tiny-production gems and not easy to track down.»

Joe Czerwinski –@RobertParker.com October 2017
Santa Duc in the rhythm of #biodynamics

An interview with Benjamin Gras

Permalink, by Domaine Santa Duc

How long have you been interested in biodynamics?

BG: “For many years. I have heard and read a lot about biodynamic agriculture, scientific as well as philosophical books and articles. Since I am rather Cartesian, some scientific articles comparing biological and biodynamic agriculture have helped me greatly in my decision. Biodynamics is still struggling against a rather esoteric image painted by some people. But it is, above all, an agricultural method which is based primarily on observations in the vineyard, taking into account all the factors of the environment which may influence the plants.”

What was the trigger for you?

BG: “The experience of many other winemakers who have achieved incredible results with biodynamics. My internship at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which applies the principles of biodynamics, was also a decisive factor. You know, in Burgundy the farmers look back on a long wine-making tradition and in the vineyards nothing is superfluous. Nevertheless, many winemakers are applying biodynamic principles. Since that experience, I have always said I would introduce biodynamics on my return to our vineyards.”

After many years of organic viticulture, what changes do you expect from biodynamics?

BG: “Since he took over the estate in 1985, my father Yves decided to go for organic farming, a long time before it became popular. We have always felt connected to the terroir and thus preserve it. The introduction of biodynamic agriculture is just another logical step in our work to revive the ecosystem of our soils, but also to strengthen the immune system of the plants. The vines learn to cope with parasites and diseases, rather than relying on molecules and pharmaceuticals. The secret of great wines lies in the soil. And vines that stand in line with their terroir produce balanced grapes and harmonious wine. In the cellar, we hardly need to intervene.”

How and where did you learn to understand biodynamics?

BG: “From books, conversations and internships ... And we work with Dominique Massenot, a consultant specializing in biodynamics, with whom we take all major decisions. Our cooperation is very satisfying, he is a reserved person who never neglects other agronomic aspects.”
Christophe’s favourites from “La Boutique Santa Duc” in Châteauneuf-du-Pape @SantaDuc

Permalink, by Domaine Santa Duc

For the summer, I spontaneously think about three wines.

Les Grands Calcaires 2015: The quartet Clairette, Ugni blanc, Picpoul and Bourboulenc gives an incredible energy to the wine, while the Grenache blanc and Viognier bring in juiciness and a fine perfume. The wine makes me dream of a shaded terrace and grilled fish.
Santa Duc Les Plans Rosé 2016: Bright, delicate colour, ripe, red fruits, a handful of citrus, fresh and gentle on the palate ... Perfect for an aperitif and summer cuisine.
Les Quattre Terres 2015: This wine always surprises me with its exuberant scent of red and black fruits, spices and herbs of Provence. An incredible nose! On the palate it is soft and elegant, with crisp acidity and delicate tannins on the finish. Enjoy now or store for another 4 to 5 years in the cellar. Unbeatable to grilled lamb cutlets and ratatouille!

The “stars” among the Terroir wines of Santa Duc? “Les Saintes Vierges” from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, vintage 2014, as well as the Gigondas “Grand Grenache” 2012. The first impresses with its elegant and fine tannin structure. Already much drinking fun today, but with high ageing potential. The second one issues from a great vintage in the Rhône valley and reaches full drinking ripeness now. Its flavours and creaminess on the palate invite you to meditate.

La Boutique Santa Duc
1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle
84230 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Téléphone : 04 90 25 02 53
Santa Duc following in the footsteps of Rayas and Fonsalette...

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel

Following in the footsteps of Rayas and Fonsalette-elegant, fresh age-worthy Grenache-driven wines from Gigondas domaine @SantaDuc #DVR2017 pic.twitter.com/KISh04FSBz

— Peter Dean (@TweetaDean) 11 avril 2017
Domaine Santa Duc Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau Ouest 2014 by “Guide Hachette 2017”

Permalink, by Sebastian Nickel, Domaine Santa Duc

In family ownership since 1874, the winery was taken over by Yves Gras in 1985. Yves soon started organic farming in its vineyards in Gigondas, a few years later also in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In the cellar, he keeps no more barriques but large wooden tanks and terracotta amphoras to emphasize the character of the terroir.

The first subtle nose, opens quickly with the scent of spices, as well as fresh raspberries and currants. Balanced in the taste, with pleasant, soft fullness, fresh acidity and dense, high-quality tannins.